
Front speakers
Front speakers
Got 2 new clarion 4" speakers and it has been a real pain putting them in. I wanted to use the original volvo covers but the magnet is bigger than the stock one so it doesnt fit properly which causes the cover to fall of when i close the door. So what did you do when you changed your front speakers 

Tbh, those covers once they start going, fall off every time you shut the doors anyway. I'd say impact adhesive fixes it, but hope you don't want to get back to the speakers 
I've got custom mountings in both of my cars, one with 6" components, and one with 6x9's. Both look stealth from the outside, unless you are looking hard

I've got custom mountings in both of my cars, one with 6" components, and one with 6x9's. Both look stealth from the outside, unless you are looking hard
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Yeah... erm, what he said, and thats only the 6" speakers
(I needed electric windows anyway)

(I needed electric windows anyway)
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Using a sledgehammer to crack a nut...

Mounting the driver to the metal of the door is a better idea, if you have the space to make it happen. I didn't know this then, and I can't remember the appearance of the insides well enough. I will re-do mine when I upgrade my speakers further.
cheers
James

Mounting the driver to the metal of the door is a better idea, if you have the space to make it happen. I didn't know this then, and I can't remember the appearance of the insides well enough. I will re-do mine when I upgrade my speakers further.
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9361
- Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
- Location: Nottingham, UK
I'd go for 5.25" or 6.5" at the most, and keep the bass off them. Intermodulation distortion from a midrange-sized cone flapping like a flag does NOT sound pretty 
cheers
James

cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
No, they were 4x7's or something equaly wierd.
There is mounting points behind the plastic. Just cut the plastic to the right shape and put some spacers in there and you can fit whatever you like (although make sure you can fit the parcel shelf around them..)
There's a post somewhere on here "What kind of ICE do you have" or something. There's some photo's in there of different ideas.
Cheers
There is mounting points behind the plastic. Just cut the plastic to the right shape and put some spacers in there and you can fit whatever you like (although make sure you can fit the parcel shelf around them..)
There's a post somewhere on here "What kind of ICE do you have" or something. There's some photo's in there of different ideas.
Cheers
Not the mk3 rear quarters... they had big oval mountings, and then used exactly the same 4" rubbish they put in the doors 
Dekay, 5x7's are possible, but I'm with Foggy, I just finished Fakes install yesterday, and although I havn't run my two cars side by side, I reckon Fakes will sound better after some tuning. Then again, I never got round to tuning Kar.
Problem is I still need to fit tweeters to go with the 6x9's, all the treble rattles around the footwells, and doesn't come up enough.

Dekay, 5x7's are possible, but I'm with Foggy, I just finished Fakes install yesterday, and although I havn't run my two cars side by side, I reckon Fakes will sound better after some tuning. Then again, I never got round to tuning Kar.
Problem is I still need to fit tweeters to go with the 6x9's, all the treble rattles around the footwells, and doesn't come up enough.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
When I fitted the tweeters from foggy the difference was immense, not just in the tone, but the stereo image was cleared up perfectly, it took a while to get them balanced properly but the final sound was damn tight at reasonable levels, considering it was all from the HU. Sadly my new blaupunkt isn't a patch on the old one, so it's nowhere near the same quality anymore, need a good amp now i think, maybe I'll keep my eyes peeled for a filthy cheap (and probably stolen) v12 



That reminds me, must ask about our radio prob sometime...
It starts very quiet, and crackly, then seems to gradually get louder, so you have to keep turning the volume down every now and then, for about five mins before it gets to the proper level without too much background noise. Havn't had time to diagnose stuff like temperatures, time engine running etc...
It starts very quiet, and crackly, then seems to gradually get louder, so you have to keep turning the volume down every now and then, for about five mins before it gets to the proper level without too much background noise. Havn't had time to diagnose stuff like temperatures, time engine running etc...
