Ali's drift 360 project

Post by **foggyjames** » 08 Jun 2006 07:22 pm

I'd definitely agree with Iain that the T2 has to go, but other than that, I agree that the supporting alterations are somewhat optional - they just mean you can make the same power with a bit less boost, etc. Personally, I like to go down that route, but a lot of people don't, as it costs a fair bit compared to the result.

It's rather like the guys who run 15+ PSI on the stock turbo on a 940 - it's out of its efficiency band, and you get the same result with greater 'safety' if you go to the effort of fitting a larger turbo.

It's cool that the stock 400 turbo ECUs are being hacked around with - that makes life a lot easier!

cheers

James

Post by **andyb** » 09 Jun 2006 12:00 am

I think Husky also used the sump and engine mounts from a B172K engine

he sure did also obtained it very cheaply i believe he got them off a guy on e-bay, he bought a 5 speed box off the guy for £5 and when we went to collect it he also bought a pretty much a complete b172k engine, all the mounts and all the water pipes for a further £20

IIRC he had to search pretty hard for a clutch that could hold the torque too.

the clutch was easy to obtain one phone call to Ap who laughed and then one phone call to a company called tecni-clutch who said no problem, they also refunded him on all the clutchs he killed.
it was just a case of trying everything but a paddle clutch first as paddle clutchs are not known for ease of use, unfortunately nothing would last more than a couple of launchs down at santa pod so he had to go with the paddle clutch in the end.
He tried an uprated centre plate first with a standard 440 turbo pressure plate, then he tried an uprated centre plate and pressure plate then he went full paddle.

Post by **foggyjames** » 09 Jun 2006 01:38 am

Ah, so he's running a paddle clutch now? Last time we discussed clutches he was trying to avoid going for a paddle! How has it worked out...is it as aggressive as he feared?

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 09 Jun 2006 05:50 am

What I have heard 4 paddle clutch is quite nice to drive, but 3 paddle clutch is much worse.

Anyway those are nothing compared to proper race car's copper clutch, that is one bitch to master

Post by **andyb** » 09 Jun 2006 08:06 am

The paddle clutch is not as bad as he feared but it is still not very nice in traffic, the main problem with a paddle clutch is they tend to be engaged or disengaged with nothing in the middle making pulling away smoothly a bit of a challenge.

Post by **Chris_C** » 09 Jun 2006 11:38 am

This has all got intresting over the last 24 hours! LE-jet isn't that hard to follow, only thing is it'll take some time, it's something I've been meaning to get documented, when Andy was keen I was all up for following it through, but then he went MS

As to the 400 ECU thingy, I was gonna go MS, and prolly still will long term, but I need to do mine in student loan friendly projects, so current plan is to get hold of a 400 with shot bodywork and a b172 sump and bell housing as funds allow, then do the prop some time not too long after (I'm hoping the current prop should last for a few months) then either straight onto squirt, or might do this stock ecu trick first.

I'm glad Iains car is made up of random bits, I was going down that route, I thought they were all expensive off the shelf as opposed to off the scrappy parts!

Post by **340GLT** » 09 Jun 2006 12:27 pm

This is all definately interesting. I must rebuild the B18FT i have here over the summer period me thinks!!!!
Adam

Post by **andyb** » 09 Jun 2006 01:20 pm

I'm glad Iains car is made up of random bits, I was going down that route, I thought they were all expensive off the shelf as opposed to off the scrappy parts!

Success! This is mainly what I was trying to clear up, most of the parts he used were cheap or free he was lucky with some items though like the boost controller which was a lucky find but these things are all out there cheaply you just need to spend some time looking, the things that cost him the money were the prop and the omex, but he had the omex for about 2 years before he got the Volvo as he was going to use it on his beetle otherwise he may well have looked at the modded stock ecu.

Post by **Ali** » 20 Aug 2006 06:28 pm

Well as my 360 has become the drift project I thought i'd update this thread, the diff has been welded but unfortunately didn't have time to take photos of the inside after i'd finished. Thought i'd start on the soundproofing today as its not going to be a road car soon so did the main section of the boot, i'll be working my way through the car this week doing it bit by bit and hopefully getting a hydro handbrake on there......

Post by **jtbo** » 20 Aug 2006 06:38 pm

I think when I was trainee in one garage they did use hair dryer to warm up that black stuff and then it came off quite easily in big chunks. It could of course be something else than hair dryer, hot air and same sound, but perhaps it was bit bigger device, can't remember too long time ago...

Post by **Ali** » 20 Aug 2006 06:44 pm

Yeah i've got a heatgun (just a more powerful hairdryer basically) but I thought it came off better when cold. I did my 340 in the winter and it cracked off in large chunks, its not working quite so well at the moment due to the weather but still not too bad. I'm not expecting it to help much anyway but if the car gets a rollcage etc in the future then i'd need the soundproofing out anyway to be able to weld. I stuck what I removed today on the scales and its about 4kg, considering ive still got under the rear seats, the rear arches, rear footwells and the whole of the front to do aswell as the big rubber mats under there and the stuff on the transmission tunnel I think it should be a fair amount! Plus its free to do anyway and as a student I have nothing better to do with my time

Post by **jtbo** » 20 Aug 2006 06:51 pm

Also there is good point of getting fresh air when doing that

When heated they did go very soft but also they did not stick so well either, but then again it was under 10 year old Opel then where needed to remove those (floor completely rusted off at places).

Post by **dalahare** » 20 Aug 2006 08:08 pm

Hey Ali, I think the loop for your race harness should be turned 90 degrees, it'll be alot less likely to bend or snap in a crash.

I dropped 170kgs from a silvia i owned, made it slightly quicker for minimal costs, handled and stopped better and put less strain on all the components when being driven hard, took everything out from the drivers seat back, removed sound deadning, ditched stereo (bought it with a big systtem, amp, sub, ect that was nearly 50kgs!!!) the stock seats weight a ton too, replaced them with fibreglass ones.

Post by **Ali** » 20 Aug 2006 08:41 pm

Ah yes well spotted, I installed it when I still had rear seats in so was hard to get to but i'll sort it out tomorrow! Think i'll swap my passenger seat back to the bucket seat as it weighs about half the normal ones!

Post by **Ronnie** » 21 Aug 2006 01:18 am

Ali wrote:Yeah i've got a heatgun (just a more powerful hairdryer basically) but I thought it came off better when cold.

I've heard that dry ice and a hammer works wonders - would be fun anyway!