Ali takes the 360 drifting....

Post by **Ronnie** » 07 Sep 2006 12:34 pm

I was thinking more of the down forces the wing generates rather than the weight of the thing!

Post by **Ali** » 07 Sep 2006 12:44 pm

Haha i'd be interested to know if it does actually create any downforce, the speeds on the track are so low I doubt it'd make a difference anyway

Post by **Ronnie** » 07 Sep 2006 12:50 pm

I'm sure you're right - You only ever really feel it kick in at around 80mph!

Post by **sven360** » 07 Sep 2006 06:23 pm

Good vid

Welded diff?

Post by **foggyjames** » 07 Sep 2006 06:27 pm

Regarding cooling, I've never really bought into the whole 'popped bonnet' thing. If it were my car, I'd look at a larger radiator, or running an e-fan continuously. You may also be exposing a knackered radiator with this hard usage. My 360 had had a screwed radiator for years, but only with the extra thermal load of the power generated by the big carbs did it manifest itself.

cheers

James

Post by **Ali** » 07 Sep 2006 06:31 pm

Nor me but it literally took about 3mins to do and I thought it was worth 3mins of my time just to try it and see if it helps. Its not like the car was overheating badly considering it was getting thraped in 2nd gear for a fair few mins solidly, the track also doesn't really give any good straight sections for letting it cool down, the main thing is to get the handbrake sorted and stop that from overheating for the next time.

Post by MJ » 07 Sep 2006 10:33 pm

I hope you do get rFactor Ali, it'd be great to get your input into the realism, and to try and get it do drift realisticly. You can download it from http://www.rFactor.net. You can demo it I believe, but I doubt you'd be able to use add-on cars untill you buy it. I think it's 30 pounds.

Cornholio, I'm afraid it's really download only. There are a couple places in the US that sell it on CD, but what with somewhat regular updates, it's really a web thing only, and with a 56k conection your a bit stuck.

Perhaps I could burn a copy onto a CD-R and post it to you if you want to buy it. You'll then need to pay on the internet to get an unlock code. I believe it's £30.

Post by **Carl** » 07 Sep 2006 11:02 pm

I had the same problem with the handbrake on my old GLT. Brand new drums are a good start - the more metal absorbing the heat the better. EBC do brake shoes - not sure if the friction material is anything better than normal shoes but might be worth a try. I believe you can also get shoes re done with more fade resisitance materials - might be worth looking into. Some more open wheels should help too - I'm using mk2 GLT alloys which do seem to help. And a fluid change is probably a good idea, ideally with dot5.1 stuff.

Of course the option is to talk to Adam about a disc conversion

By the way - excellent video

Post by **Ali** » 08 Sep 2006 10:05 am

Got rFactor now, thanks very much torrentspy

had a quick test of the cars but was struggling to get to grips with the game (working out how to turn off all those bloody driving aids!) the main problem i'm finding is that the force feedback on my wheel feels bloody awful, instead of the wheel trying to pull itself straight its trying to pull itself into the corner even more and im having to put force on to straighten it up. I therefore had to swap from 900degree mode down to 200degree mode which loses the realism. With the welded diff the car did feel good though with initial understeer followed by controllable oversteer.

The rear disc conversion would be damn nice but I was quite surprised that the drums locked in the dry so easily. I've seen pictures of drilled drums, I pressume that would help cooling? Now I know they overheat so badly I won't used the handbrake so much, my main concern on the day was that my clutch bites really late and i've had it judder after its been sat in the rain for several days so I really didn't want to kill it. I'll just have to vary entry techniques next time I go and hopefully nothing will get too hot/break!

Post by MJ » 08 Sep 2006 10:12 am

Right, driving aids. Go to the options/settings, whatever it's called, and then I think it's the difficulty section. Turn them all off

The force feedback, do you mean the wheel is pulling to either side instead of centering? This is a logitech problem, go into the controller setup, find the force feedback strength, it should be 100%, then drag it into the negative, so -100%, or whatever you prefer, then it will center.

Has Jani sent you the latest version, I feel it's a big improvement over previous ones, if not dop him an e-mail, we'd be glad for your opinion

Post by **Ali** » 08 Sep 2006 10:17 am

Ahhh ok, yeah I meant that you turn into the corner a little bit and the force feedback keeps applying lock for you so as you corner you have to apply force pulling the wheel straight totally opposite to real life. I'll sort that force feedback then and have another go! Not sure but think i've got the latest version, I downloaded it from the 2nd to last page in the rFactor thread on here. I spent bloody ages going through all the F... keys on the keyboard turning the damn aids off!

Post by **jtbo** » 08 Sep 2006 01:19 pm

Force feedback solution
http://www.janiervast.com/rfactor/index ... roller.ini

Put that file to rfactordir/userdata/yourusername/ make backup from old one.

Then set dfp wheel to 900 degrees of rotation from wingman control centre.
Oh yes and adjust buttons and all that again as those are my mappings, handbrake is in gearstick and paddles shift gears, clutch at R2

I will pm link to latest version for you Ali, I think I'm not allowed to post it public yet?

Post by **Gulbrandsen_Racing** » 09 Sep 2006 09:54 pm

all you have done is a welded diff and no rear-seats or stereo?

You really inspire me Ali!

But i've soon got a turbo-charged 200F, so i think maybe i can get the drifts a bit longer, and link more drifts together. After a ton of practise

Post by **jtbo** » 10 Sep 2006 08:03 am

Gulbrandsen_Racing wrote:all you have done is a welded diff and no rear-seats or stereo?

You really inspire me Ali!

But i've soon got a turbo-charged 200F, so i think maybe i can get the drifts a bit longer, and link more drifts together. After a ton of practise

It has been lowered too, quite a bit if I do remember correctly

Post by **Ali** » 10 Sep 2006 11:03 am

Yeah basically thats all that'll make a difference, stripped of most stuff inside, welded diff and suspension. Although I think you could get away with just a welded diff and leave the rest. Might make it a lot harder to control though on standard suspension. With the turbo engine it should be real easy, for that track my 2nd gear is just a tiny bit too short and 3rd is waaaay too long, end up hitting the limiter a lot round the ends of the oval and then just run out of revs in the end and have to straighten up!