How much can you lower a 360 by?

Post by **stealthstylz** » 09 Apr 2007 07:14 pm

Where did you trim on the front arches?

I think im gonna chop the inner arches away then i'll knock the arch lips back with a hammer & dolly.

Matt

Post by **IvanAE86** » 10 Apr 2007 05:18 pm

The arch lips were pretty much rotted away on my car so I cut them off and then rolled over a tiny lip to add some firmness to the wings again. Not exactly a pretty solution, but it doesnt look that bad from a distance and I dont care about looks anyway. Hammering the lip back might work, but it's quite a lot of lip, so you might need to consider cutting it back anyway.
The rims on the picture are ATS cup's 7jx15 ET20 using 195/55-15 semislicks.. should give you a little reference to the size and offset that might cause problems.
13's should fit without much trimming I imagine, unless you plan to fit 13x8 et4 rims with massive tires (like I am going to do once I find the time to trim back the rear fenders and fit the overfenders).

Post by **stealthstylz** » 10 Apr 2007 07:19 pm

LOL mine are ET7 13x8s I think, gonna have a set with slicks on so will need clearance probably
Matt

Post by **Van Hoof** » 10 Apr 2007 07:37 pm

Just a quick question Dai. Why do you need to put the cable on the far side of the spring if you go lower than 1 1/5 on a 360? What does that actually mean you need to do?

Thanks

Ben

Post by **jtbo** » 11 Apr 2007 01:01 pm

Van Hoof wrote:Just a quick question Dai. Why do you need to put the cable on the far side of the spring if you go lower than 1 1/5 on a 360? What does that actually mean you need to do?

Thanks

Ben

I would think that spring is too short when you lift car up and then bad things can happen at bumps when spring is not where it should be...

Post by **Van Hoof** » 11 Apr 2007 05:57 pm

Which spring are we talking about here? The one on the handbrake lever?

Post by **jtbo** » 11 Apr 2007 06:05 pm

Van Hoof wrote:Which spring are we talking about here? The one on the handbrake lever?

Ah, I just read half of information again, was thinking about front coil springs, LOL.

Post by **classicswede** » 11 Apr 2007 10:13 pm

I've not had any clearance problems on the wheel arch in that sense at all with extream lowering on 15" rims. The only problem with any rubbing was on the strut tower where is comes down - hammer it over and problem solved.

As to why the hand brake cable needs moving its fairly simple. The cable is clamped to the spring and then goes through the back plate on teh hub. When you put in the lowering blocks you move the spring away from the hub. Doing that and leving the cable atched as normal puts strain on the cable. You can get away with it upto a 1 1/5" but any more than that it must be moved to the other side to remove teh tension created.

Post by **stealthstylz** » 12 Apr 2007 10:48 am

How easy is it to move the cable? Are any special bits needed?

Matt

Post by **classicswede** » 17 Apr 2007 12:51 pm

Its not hard at all to do. All that has to be done is remove the drum. Pull the cable out and the move the cable from the top to the bottom of the leave spring. After that just reasemble.

Post by **stealthstylz** » 17 Apr 2007 01:11 pm

Thanks a lot will sort that out.

Matt