How much torque will this gearbox handle??

Post by **Johnny A** » 18 Jul 2007 06:49 pm

so does the 1.4 or the 1.7 have the wider diff?

Post by **foggyjames** » 19 Jul 2007 12:20 am

1.4 5spd has a 3.82:1 diff, and a 1.7 has a 3.64:1 diff - same as a 360 GLT. Higher number = shorter gearing. FWIW, I'd always run a 3.82 on a NA 300 for performance usage, unless it's a huge displacement unit. You might be ok with the 3.64 on a 2.3 16v....or are you planning to run forced induction? My 3.36 is pretty miserable NA.

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 19 Jul 2007 08:50 pm

3.36 is really bad for track use, even 4th is quite ok when you have B200 injection with K-cam. biggest problem is 3rd gear as often 2nd is bit short for corner and 3rd way too tall.

Post by **Chris_C** » 20 Jul 2007 12:50 am

That happens with all diffs Jani

Post by **foggyjames** » 20 Jul 2007 01:32 am

It happens way worse with the 3.36....it's really bloody obvious when you compare the 360 (3.36) and Nessy (3.82) back-to-back.

cheers

James

Post by **Johnny A** » 20 Jul 2007 09:17 am

1.7 gearbox it is then! Cheers guys

Post by **jtbo** » 21 Jul 2007 09:30 am

Chris_C wrote:That happens with all diffs Jani

It does happen, but common cornering speeds on race tracks are around 80-100kph (or at least on those that I have driven) and there with 3.36 you have problems as 2nd gear is really bit short and 3rd is then too tall, but with somewhat shorter diff you can use 3rd in places like that and engine's rpm is in proper powerband and that helps a lot.

You can test this in volvo300 mod if you like, set diff to 3.82 in v360gl_gears.ini set final drive ratio to look like this ratio=(100, 482) and you have shorter diff with ratio of 3.82.

Even GLT diff vs GL diff (3.64 vs 3.36) means lot of difference on track, imo.

Post by **Chris_C** » 23 Jul 2007 10:20 am

Don't worry, first thing I did to the 300 mod after I found I was lame at driving your car was to put it on a 3.64

Agreed, it does shift the speed, just I do most of my hard driving at 30-50mph, which is where the 2nd/3rd hole is in the 3.64. I guess track and lanes differ

Post by **huskyracer** » 24 Jul 2007 10:54 pm

FWIW in my opinion the 1.7 diff is too short with 220 + bhp

if you want to achive high speeds. Both the renault and volvo engines dont like big revs when modified to this sort of powerput means rev limiter action in fith at 145/150 ish mph, although more worrying is the way the tops of the doors open slightly, and how un stable it feels, er, on my private test track officer....

Post by **340GLT** » 25 Jul 2007 01:05 am

While you are about Ian can you remap the standard clio 16v management?
Adam

Post by **foggyjames** » 25 Jul 2007 01:39 am

Totally agree there Iain - I'll be putting the 3.36 back into the 360 when I've got the turbo lump in. If you'd like a spare 3.36 diff, give me a shout.

Door tops opening is usually a sign that the hinge pins are starting to get a bit weak - and it only really affects 3 door models.

As for stability...yes...I can well imagine. I had the opportunity to run the 360 at Elvington a couple of years ago, and got the speedo needle pointing sort of 'down'. It sounded and felt ok actually, but my housemate's 740 Turbo feels better when doing 20mph more. I also amazed myself in the S70 when giving it a little 'squeeze' on a test track a while back. It was starting to get a touch noisy, so I looked down and the needle was pointing at 145mph. I'd have guess it was more like 100-110.

What dya think that's all about with the 300s....aerodynamics? Suspension setup?

There's a guy on Tbricks with a very tricked out 240 (with best part of 1000bhp) trying to top 200mph on the salt flats. Good luck to the man!

cheers

James

Post by **huskyracer** » 25 Jul 2007 10:58 pm

Adam, the management from a clio is not nice to work with, a few people I know have played with it and not had particularly stunning results, although they do respoud well to raising the rev limmit. dont go mad though, and best not to delete it entirely, it will only take one missed gear to put the bulk of its innards in the bottom of the sump sm75

to be honest in your position I would be having a very hard look at bike carbs on fleabay, and you will have change left over from what you will pay to map it

Foggy I recon most of the instabillity is due to aerodynamics, but in my case, I think the suspension may also be partly to blame, when I put the konis on it I initialy and stupidly wound them round to full hard, for mega sick wikked roll free handling,

but its still a boat

I took the backs off and wound them right down as I decided it was dangerous to hit my head on the roof at the first sign of a bump, unfortunately I am a mechanic and lazy at that, so I still cant be bothered to strip the entire front strut down just to twiddle the insert round three times to adjust it and put it back together, only to find its probably still way to stiff on compression
Koni cup dampers are way to hard in a 340 for the avalible springs

Post by **foggyjames** » 26 Jul 2007 02:13 am

I managed to pick up a set of Koni shocks for the rear...I need some bushes for them, then I'll see how I get on with them. They should be better than 19 year old oil shocks though

They are fairly comically 'undersprung', especially compared to more modern cars.

cheers

James