Nope, won't keep the LPG system. I won't use it as a daily, so mpg will not be an issue; and I'd rahter shed the weight and keep the engine bay tidy. You are right about the flashlube, as to the other parts... haven't really had a look at them yet. Can find out tomorrow, though.

Fitted the rear coilovers and lowering blocks today. Can anyone recommend a setup for track use (front/back)?

Start with about 10 - 15 clicks and then tweak from there. Make sure you do both the same and grease the adjuster.

classicswede wrote:Start with about 10 - 15 clicks and then tweak from there. Make sure you do both the same and grease the adjuster.

Ok, done. As soon es Antje is back on the road I'll refine the setup. Do you also have a suggestion for the spring pre-load (rear coilover)?

Today I fitted the last bushings. I also reassembled the front struts as they were at different heights. One of the bearings in the strut is breaking. Still works at the moment, but I`d like to replace both. Does anyone have an Idea where I can get them? I'd also like to replace the rubber strut thingies....


This is the cracked bearing:
And this is Antje with the new suspension (2" front, 1" back). And some wheels I found in the workshop..... Guess I`ll keep them

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =9&t=13424

is it the part in the above thread you are looking for?

They are on the way

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =5&t=14877

classicswede wrote:http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =9&t=13424

is it the part in the above thread you are looking for?

The strut top - yes. The bearing - no. It*s no. 10:

classicswede wrote:http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =9&t=13424
They are on the way

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =5&t=14877

He he looking great! Will defo get a pair when they are available. Now all I need is patience. Anyone got spare patience for me?

If there is *any* cracking in part 9, don't refit without fixing them!

no10 is the bearing. If RJ does not have some then I do.

And as Chris pointed out check no 9 for any cracks and repair/replace if there is and damage

classicswede wrote:no10 is the bearing. If RJ does not have some then I do.

And as Chris pointed out check no 9 for any cracks and repair/replace if there is and damage

Thx! Will ask RJ.

Well it's time for an update.I was quite busy - I had entered my documents for the GLP on Saturday 29.06, so I had to get the car back on the road, get it tuved and then get it registered. I only had to get the inner right front wing welded, change the water cooler, fix the torque rod issue, finish wiring the battery I had relocated to the boot, check the brakes....

The torque rod did not fit with the lowering blocks in place. Took it out, and now its adjustable:
Fits fine:
Didn't know the torque rod is hollow until I cut it. Maybe I'll take measurements and get a massive one done - adjustable, of course.

I won't bore you with all the other details and last minute desasters that struck, suffice to say we were busy until the very last second. What did not bother me much at the time was that the tires I had ordered did not arrive on time. I could use the Toyos Proxes 4 that had been on the alloys when I found them, plenty of wear left. Yeah, right...
The Nordschleife can be slippery in the wet, but I have done quite a few laps in the wet and the performance of those Japanese Armco-Seekers is not even remotely acceptable. Don't ever use them, the are positively murderous in the wet. No feedback, no readable signs that they are going to give, one moment the car behaves ok, the next millisecond the back steps out. Nearly no traction, the slightest change in throttle position lets the back step out. Front wasn't much better. Braking was also a bit difficult - it felt like a binary switch between no brakes and locking. Twice the rear brakes locked before the front did, too.

Anyway, I managed to stay clear of the armco and of other cars, too. Oh, and the tires I had ordered arrived two hours after I had left on Friday.

Here's a picture from the 'ring:

Your bushes are probably past best and no replacement available as yet. I cut the end of mine and welded on some long nuts and screwed in standard rose joints.

Radius arm is very important to control the rear toe-in (as in avoiding it).

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... it=+radius

OK, with the brilliant new board design I feel it is time for another rare update. Last year I did not get much done due to too much workload, but this year started well.

First I stripped the new engine:
I did not know the donor’s build year, but my hopes were fulfilled. It’s got the stronger rods and the oil cooled pistons.
Unfortunately I have some difficulties getting the right pistons. I need first oversize, but can get only Standard “G”-Pistons. Of course I could get forged pistons, but I don’t want to. Any help appreciated!
With the block getting honed I spend a couple of hours porting the head and smoothing the canals. First the inlet side – fits the gasket perfectly!
Then I enlarged the inlet and outlet before / after the valves. Rounded a lot of the edges and particularly the outlet side is a lot larger now.
Nearly done – will smooth it again but I guess that’s it then. Maybe I will enlarge the ports to the exhaust manifold, but at the moment I think I won’t. Main target was to allow the exhaust gases to exit the chamber more easily.

The car will be running more than 250 hp, so I took the torque tube apart to strengthen the flange. Some say that it’s sufficient to use stronger bolts, others say I have to get a stronger replacement flange made. Opinions and experiences appreciated!
Finally, the turbo for the car has arrived. Hint: not the 19T…
That’s it for now, still loads to do. I hope to get the car running in March, as it’s back on registration in April.

This is looking good, I'd missed the post from last summer ...

Some say that it’s sufficient to use stronger bolts

The V3C sells new ones of these, but I'm afraid I can't say how strong they are...

Looking forward to hearing more from your car!

Cheers

Tom

they match original strength, ment to replace overstretched (weakened) bolts

Time for an update. Unfortunately it’s only a tiny update, as my other project car (a ’98 V70R) had raised a finger and demanded attention. Lots of attention. Bloody saffron princess of evil.

Anyway, last week I could finally collect the new, stronger flange that I had made:
Looks like an Arnold Schwarzenegger-memorial-dumbbell. Quite likely it is now the strongest part of the drivetrain. And yes, it does fit into the torque tube, with about 1mm to spare all around.

Comparison to original part:
Measurements:
Length: 120mm (original part: 80mm)
Diameter: 73mm (original part: 64mm diagonal)
Weight: 1.499g (original part: 457g)
The length might be a problem when assembling the drive train. On the plus side, the contact surface is a lot longer.
The weight difference is significant, but I have been assured that it’s not a problem. The diameter is small enough. Of course it has been balanced.

Changes are:
- Only two slits instead of three
- Two bolts per clamp instead of one
- M12 screws for the clamp instead of M8
- Two grub screws per M12-Screw to lock the screw instead of ...err… none
- Stronger clamps
- Stronger stainless steel
To access the screws, I will have to drill new holes into the torque tube.

The welding point of one of the original part’s clamps has broken, taking a chunk of cast iron with it:
This won’t happen with the dumbbell…

The next update might take some time: the pistons from the B200FT have gone missing... Last month two people had to collect their stuff from the workshop, my guess is that one of them mistook them for their car's parts. As if they would fit into a Citroen DS (Suspect #1) or Pontiac Catalina (Suspect #2).



Does anyone know a source for oversized genuine pistons?

Interesting clamp, have you got a price and supplier? Very interested to hear how it holds up.

I did think that normal steel was stronger than stainless, stainless is brittle, but the oversize may compensate, and the bigger bolts less critical on torque. We need an aftermarket part anyhow. I do wonder why Volvo didn't use a sleeve with maybe a locating bolt. Works for the clutch and diff!

The original clamp is certainly tightly engineered howver I believe it works when used as the designer intended with new bolts and an accurate torque wrench, up to around 250bhp. The weld is just to position the clamp, I presume it broke when the bolts failed.