Double meaning in the title aside .....

What is the easiest way to beef up the spring rate on the back of a 360 for carrying heavy loads? Is it simply cutting the springs off a scrap car, loosening the bolts on each side and sliding on an extra length of leaf spring?

I'm sure a drifter has done a modification similar, (with lowering).

Cheers

Hugh's done it... but then again, would you want to copy it

I've read about the 360 cup guys using leaf spring assistors, don't know much about the, but they are supposed to be designed for towing use.

I've seen a device you can fit to coil overs for towing, not much use on a 360

my method works well?

yeah slip another spring in, underneath, then add a locating bolt. andy's got a drillbit

http://www.springassisters.co.uk/Leaf%2 ... 20Page.htm

Dunno if these would be of any use?

If you are only loading the car up with a resonable amount of weight then a pair of spax adjustables will do the job. If you are stuffing loads of weight in the back and/or towing then you have three choices 1) add part of another spring in (down side is without any load you will have a very hard ride and imo is not a very good way of doing it) 2) coil over dampers (down side minimum spring rate I can get in 80lbs iwich is a bit ott without any weight in the back - advantage is you can adjust to the amount of weight you have) 3) is uprated rear springs I am going to ge getting some made as the rear is a bit soft partly due to the constant weight of the fuel and tanks.

The load level is abit less than this for much of my driving, (70kg on the tow bar + 3-4 people).

Have you thought of putting the bikes on the front to even the load out


No on a seriouse note just a set of spax would probably solve the worst of the problems tbh. When you are loaded up you could turn them up a bit stiffer to help. Lowering the front end would also help a little.
Idealy uprated rear springs are the answer. I'm not going to be doing mine for a few weeks (or reslisticly 2 months) but if you want to wait I could price up for having another set made.

To give you an idea of how much difference the spax have made I had to tup a 1" lowering block in to give the same ride height as it was with the originals.

classicswede wrote:Have you thought of putting the bikes on the front to even the load out

Not very practical lol
but what about roof mounted bike racks so l the weight is spread over both axles and not just over the rear end

5lab wrote:my method works well?

Just winding you up mate

Dai, how adjustable are the spax, how do you change them when they are fitted?

The Volvo accessory method was a coilover which went in place of the standard shock. Cheeky...if you could make it work...

cheers

James

Chris_C wrote:how do you change them when they are fitted?

Theres an adjuster at the bottom of the shock that you can turn with a screwdriver from what it looks like...

well if you want to make a coil over on the std shock , need to check your local gas/water piper stockists .

some motorbike springs would suit .

i have to say robin hood used to modify dampers like this , and they were totally and utterly useless for the job intended , i still think if you did the job properly would be a good idea .

I'll see how bad it is, not used the tow bar yet but as you can see from that photo, the bikes make a difference!

No way am I trusting a roof rack with our bikes