Clutch change DO I REALLY NEED TOO

[spin-king]

The clutch has gone on the volvo d-reg 2ltr carb.

I can put the car in and out of gear while the engine is running but its got no drive.

I have been told its the clutch but do i really need to

1. take rear suspension off
2. Take rear axle off
3. Take gearbox and diff off
4. Take torque shaft off

To get at the clutch or is there a easier way.

Also is it deff the clutch been told it is but just want to make sure.

Cheers peps.

[kaos]

take propshaft of.

remove bellhousing.

remove crap clutch

replace clutch with new one.

replace bellhousing

replace propshaft

pay mechanic.

Job done:d

17mm bolts if i remember for the bell housing. and a 6mm allen key socket for the prop.

[Chris_C]

Won't be that easy Kaos, spin's car being a 2L will be a 360, so a torque tube jobbie

Not as easy to do a change on as a 340, so might well be needed to remove that lot, I've never had to do a clutch on a 60 though, but they'll be someone along soon who has!

[petefarrell360]

Being a 360, the prop shaft is a torque tube, which is not on a spring and splines on an easily removable propshaft, but uses a linking section from the shaft to the gearbox, which I would guess is your weak link here. If you can engage gears with it running then I'm guessing it's not the clutch.

It is really the required way to do it, otherwise from memory you won't be able to get at all the required bits and pieces, like where the gear linkage stabiliser mounts onto the bellhousing, (I think my memory serves me well on that one!) Also without being able to tip the engine on the mounts and the torque tube down, getting to the top two bolts of the torque tube to bellhousing is near enough impossible as it's up in the centre tunnel.

It sounds like a nasty task, but, if enough care is taken, take your time and you don't come across too many siezed bolts and have a very good fitting hex headed socket for the torque tube to gearbox/bellhousing bolts and make sure it's in so it doesn't round them off you'll be fine and it's achieveable in a day if you've not done it before.

The axle doesn't have to come off, nor the rear suspension having read your post again, undo the halfshafts at the gearbox flange, tie them up to the axle out of the way, undo the gearbox, torque tube linkage (rubber bung in torque tube for access), and torque tube to gearbox and lower the gearbox. Undo the torque tube to bellhousing and your getting nearer. I think the Haynes book of lies covers it quite well.

Pete

[spin-king]

Some verygood info there thankyou.

if its not the clutch what i is???

The cars got a welded diff nothinh else and has 85k on the clock???

[petefarrell360]

You're welcome! If the diff is welded and the welds have failed it may have destroyed itself, but that might have resulted in a hole somewhere and a loud bang or some noise at least! Otherwise it could be the linking piece in the torque tube I mentioned. It's basically a clamp to join the splines of the torque tube shaft to the splines and shaft on the gearbox input shaft. That is probably one of the parts likely to take a lot of strain when the diff is welded, as if the wheels cannot skip at low speeds or a wheel won't spin at a different speed to the other, and the clutch won't slip, that is the part left in the middle of the drive train to take the pressure. I've no idea of they are available from Volvo or not, probably not, so you're looking for someone with one off of a car willing to sell that part, or if you're willing to strip it all off to get at one from a scrap car. I have one, but I'm not really keen on letting it go I'm afraid, mainly due to possibly needing it one day and never being able to find one!

If you look under the car, there are two rubber bungs in the torque tube, not far from the gearbox end of business. Remove them and with the car raised off the ground on axles stands see if the torque tube spins both sides of the clamp if say you turn the bottom pulley on the front of the engine with a socket and bar, or from the other way try it in gear with the clutch dipped and spinning the wheels by hand, as it's a welded diff it should turn the shaft then, not just the opposite wheel through the diff.

I take it there is resistance in the clutch pedal? If the cable had snapped you shouldn't be able to put it in and out of gear while it's running, but maybe it's caught somewhere or wedged preventing it from releasing. Can you hear the clutch engage at all?

Worth checking those things, or working from the back strip it all down and see. You'll find it eventually and probably have to remove the stuff anyway to get to it for the repair.

Pete

[classicswede]

I've always opted to take teh engine out to do a clutch cahnge. It will also pay to do the rear oil seal at the same time

[spin-king]

Does anybody know were i can get a torque shaft from i cant find one at any of the local scrap yards and the locol volvo garage say they cant get me one.

[foggyjames]

I don't think it is the clutch. It's pretty unusual for a clutch to fail causing a loss of drive. The clutch will slip as it gets severely worn, but I'd be very surprised to find it goes 'ping', and you have no drive. At the other extreme, being unable to change gear due to a failed or collapsed clutch is fairly common, and it doesn't take much 'drag' on the clutch to make changing gear impossible.

I think you've almost certainly broken / rounded off the link piece between the torque tube and gearbox, or damaged the box internally. Does the box still firmly 'clunk' into gear?

As Pete says, you don't need to remove the rear axle or rear suspension, although if you have the inclination, it's probably easier to remove the box that way. Personally, there was no way I could be bothered with that

I won't lie, it is a sod of a job. I've done it recently myself, and it wasn't much fun. My advice, assuming you're handy with a set of spanners, is to get the car well up in the air, and start taking it apart. Get the box off, see what you find, and act accordingly. I can get you a complete drivetrain, if necessary. Whatever you need, I have it...but what I can't tell you without seeing it in pieces is what you need to fix it.

cheers

James

[Chris_C]

Housemates E36 beemer threw it's diff, absolutely silent about it. Main pin had sheared and spit the little gears into the pinion. That lost drive, and after I towed it back we just stuck the back end in the air and followed where the last point of movement could be seen. I don't like running a car when it's on stands, but figured we were only idling the engine to check.

[spin-king]

Well got some free time to have a proper look at the problem and found all is in the diff

THINK ITS BROKEN LOL




Looks like the welds have cought in the diff and mashed it.

Anybody got/know were there is one.

[classicswede]

That does look to have a little damage.

You can use a 340 diff

[spin-king]

exellent cheers

[foggyjames]

PM sent

cheers

James