Crankcase seal leaks
Crankcase seal leaks
I have replaced all seals at front of engine and only crankcase seal seem to be leaking, furthermore it is lip that is leaking. I installed seals paying great attention to not damage seal and not to cause spring get off.
I did not install seal all the way to bottom, as I have got information that it should not.
What are common reasons for seal to fail doing it's job from this inner lip?
I did not install seal all the way to bottom, as I have got information that it should not.
What are common reasons for seal to fail doing it's job from this inner lip?
Hmm, hmmmmmm, as I took it out now spring was missing, it was on crankcase, but now I don't know if it detached when I did remove seal or not.
I put already new one in and tested and no leaks for a minute or so, must test more tomorrow when I get car out from garage. This time I did use load of graphite grease and I feel seal did get easier on place.
But we see tomorrow if it has been just my error when installing seal.
I put already new one in and tested and no leaks for a minute or so, must test more tomorrow when I get car out from garage. This time I did use load of graphite grease and I feel seal did get easier on place.
But we see tomorrow if it has been just my error when installing seal.
It should not be really that difficult, remove hood and radiator, that will help a _LOT_, I don't really see how it could be possible without removing those.Ronnie wrote:Jani, I have this job to do too, and you're putting me off
One tip is to remove renix TDC sensor from bellhousing and use one of it's attachment bolts to keep flywheel from rotating, I just put bolt into hole of flywheel, this makes removing crankcase bolt easier as it is almost like welded to place after that.
You can't keep engine from rotating even if you jam camshaft gear as belt just jumps. Crankcase bolt is tightened to 165Nm so it won't come off easily. Air tools are your friend, with those undoing bolt is just few seconds.
I have done this now 4 times in total and as I haven't put all bolts and parts together it is only 15 minutes with finding all tools for me to get access to seal, but still it is major annoyance to do it _again_.
I'm starting doubt that there might be some problem in crankcase surface, maybe small scratch or something that causes problem in my case.
Hmm, housing? Sorry, I got lost there, do you mean housing seal sits in eg. leak would be between seal and place where it sits?daffodil wrote:make sure that it is not the housing gasket that is leaking.....check all the bolts on the housing are not loose
When I last time did open it there was small 'river' (what is right word?) oil from inner lip of seal to downwards, which indicates that it is leaking from inner lip, but this can be false impression of course.
Forgot to mention that I have also cleaned all surfaces before installing seal and seal is installed so that it goes just past edged corner of crankcase so that it should make good seal on smooth level surface, but not to be so deep that oil pressure would push between seal and engine.
I came to think about it, what if car has had bad quality seal that had hardened by temperature and then worn crankcase surface, has such things happened?
I think that could also be possible explanation.
There is seals with two lips, maybe I try such one next, but I need bit of clarification about what means housing, is it 'home' of seal where it sits in?
I think that could also be possible explanation.
There is seals with two lips, maybe I try such one next, but I need bit of clarification about what means housing, is it 'home' of seal where it sits in?
hi there!
How goes it with the crank seal?
Is this for a redblock car?
conveniently Ive just had a similar case at work and can hopefully help
Indeed, it is possible if and when the old seal goes hard with age that it can act as an abrasive against the end of the crankshaft. If you are sure you are installing the seal right ie correct depth etc (if this is relevant to the red blocks, I've not done one but Im sure someone here or or Turbobricks can advise!) then the cause could the the crank is slightly worn down. Can you see a groove where the old seal went?
A possible solution would be to fit a larger seal, maybe bespoke somehow rather than fit a new crank - which was the solution at work today.
Chris C and Mac were talking about how to fabricate your own crankseals...maybe a possibility
kind regards
shimon
How goes it with the crank seal?
Is this for a redblock car?
conveniently Ive just had a similar case at work and can hopefully help
Indeed, it is possible if and when the old seal goes hard with age that it can act as an abrasive against the end of the crankshaft. If you are sure you are installing the seal right ie correct depth etc (if this is relevant to the red blocks, I've not done one but Im sure someone here or or Turbobricks can advise!) then the cause could the the crank is slightly worn down. Can you see a groove where the old seal went?
A possible solution would be to fit a larger seal, maybe bespoke somehow rather than fit a new crank - which was the solution at work today.
Chris C and Mac were talking about how to fabricate your own crankseals...maybe a possibility
kind regards
shimon
Enjoy your 300s
I would say that at least there was quite clear polished area on crankshaft neck, which actually did lead me to believe to possibility of such.
It is redblock B200K, If I had not bought French transportation device, then it would been time to get Penta crankcase
I try with double lip seal if I can find one from where I'm at this week, in theory that should be cheapest and easiest solution as one lip contacts with surface that has not been worn out yet.
Maybe next week I have experiences if this 'trick' has been helpful or if not.
It is redblock B200K, If I had not bought French transportation device, then it would been time to get Penta crankcase
I try with double lip seal if I can find one from where I'm at this week, in theory that should be cheapest and easiest solution as one lip contacts with surface that has not been worn out yet.
Maybe next week I have experiences if this 'trick' has been helpful or if not.
Breather is ok as I did remove flame trap completely, it was too far gone to be saved.daffodil wrote:check all the breather hoses and flame trap are clear and not blocked.under inlet manifold as a build up of pressure will cause an oil leak
Breather hoses are ok too (or that is what I think), those are new and there is no tight bends that might block fumes to pass.
However if I remove oil cap it seem to blow quite well, also it has quite impressive piston slap, but from breather hose there is only small blow coming out.
Must check that then, some fumes are coming from hose there, but better check oil trap to be sure enough fumes comes out as it can of course be partly clogged which is already enough to build up some pressure.daffodil wrote:check that the fumes are comming out of the oil trap where the flame trap hose goes on as these have a habit of blocking up


