Leaf spring rear bracket wanted

[trabitom99]

Hi!

Can anyone breaking a V300 help me out with one of these? One of my leaf spring brackets is getting a little crusty (actually the whole car is a little crusty, but I need to start somewhere ):




EDIT: part no 3267522 - just on the off chance someone has a new one


Cheers

Tom

[foggyjames]

How much of a hurry are you in? You know what I'm like with breaking cars!

cheers

James

[filthyjohn]

I'll cut one out of my upcoming breaker if you like Tom. But that depends on when Foggy fetches it up here so it's the same story from me.
It could come over with your set of doors.

[trabitom99]

Ooh, did I hear doors ?

No great rush, it should last a little while longer. I've emailed Dafhobby as well, but it'll be a while till they get around to cutting the bracket out of their breaker too. I'll grab the first part that comes up, so give me a shout before you or James get the angle grinder going

Cheers

Tom

[madseb]

hey guys, if anyone has a ppair of these surplus to requirementsthese off a breaker in good condition ill take them.
pm me ta...
soz for the hijack.

[trabitom99]

Bump ...

Any chance of one of you guys getting around to this sometime soon? V300 national-meet-date is getting nearer, means no need to mess around with postage etc

Cheers

Tom

[340GLT]

I'm about to remove the ones from LFE, if i can get them off in one piece your welcome to them.
Adam

[Ride_on]

Yes they are quite badly designed, I just been refurbing my RHS one (with the toeing eye). De-spot welded the box section from inside the boot then angle grinder cutter across the beam from the top and bottom. Plates are particularly hard to remove and full of compressed layered rust inbetween.

So if you are removing I recommend taking the box section aswell. Just angle grinder around the hole area from the top if recovering spare parts, spot welds nice and easy to see from insider the boot.

Another point I have noticed is that the outer plates seem to been designed to have water drain, but the lip on the inner bit blocks it off and it becomes a water trap, looks like a design boo-boo, but I doubt it would stop it rusting alot anyway. Most of the interior paint was poorly adhered, and very little cavity sealant in the box section. Looks like they had trouble getting the sealer gun in around the sides, very inconsistent.

[trabitom99]

I'm about to remove the ones from LFE, if i can get them off in one piece your welcome to them.
Adam

That'd be great if you could, Adam! The car's in the body shop right now, as the sills are being done ATM it'd be good if they could get the spring bracket done at the same time.

Yes they are quite badly designed, I just been refurbing my RHS one (with the toeing eye). De-spot welded the box section from inside the boot then angle grinder cutter across the beam from the top and bottom. Plates are particularly hard to remove and full of compressed layered rust inbetween.

So if you are removing I recommend taking the box section aswell. Just angle grinder around the hole area from the top if recovering spare parts, spot welds nice and easy to see from insider the boot.

Another point I have noticed is that the outer plates seem to been designed to have water drain, but the lip on the inner bit blocks it off and it becomes a water trap, looks like a design boo-boo, but I doubt it would stop it rusting alot anyway. Most of the interior paint was poorly adhered, and very little cavity sealant in the box section. Looks like they had trouble getting the sealer gun in around the sides, very inconsistent.

Thanks for that, Rideon ... It seems the RHS is more prone to rust than the LHS for some reason, although the part is the same, in theory.

Cheers

Tom

[Ride_on]

If you are removing the spring mounts with box section as per my piccy, you might have bumper mounts and bolts aswell. If so I'll take them if they not rusted away.