fuel light

Post by **Chris_C** » 01 Aug 2005 02:12 pm

Good point, I've never played with anything younger than an '83. And agree'd that the tank sender should be first on the checklist

Post by **morgan105** » 01 Aug 2005 07:28 pm

Sorry All! Mis-interpreted the data. It DOES have to be still plugged in to the board while testing with a normal voltmeter because it needs it's constant power source, my testing equipment provides this feature and allows me to test off the car so it didn't occur to me about my normal type voltmeter not providing this.

Sorry about that!
morgan105

I'll keep my mouth shut in future.

Post by **foggyjames** » 01 Aug 2005 07:54 pm

Aah...you have a clever tester?

No, please keep your mouth open

Everything helps...you were the first to suggest the voltage stabiliser, and that is a very good suggestion - it's an extremely common failure on the 2/7/900 series...not sure about the 300s...I guess you'd not hear as much about it even if it was!

Accuracy of information is important, but not as important as having some information to start with. In other words, I'd rather have 10 guestimates than nothing at all...at least from there we can pick the pieces together.

A good analogy is my current quest for AC. No-one knows everything about it, so I have to piece it together. I'm lucky, in that Andy (Pettaw) is very knowledgable about almost all aspects of 360 AC, but he started with a system in place, so he's not so sure about some of the installation details. For example, I've learned this week from a service guy in Australia that AC condensors (radiators) are common failures, but evaporators (in the airbox) are not. That scrap of information helps with sourcing parts. The R-Sport kit...well that was waaaay worse, and not finished yet! My hope is to put all of this specialist knowledge together in one place at some point.

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 01 Aug 2005 08:19 pm

Well, there is nothing wrong with my temp gauge so I guess it is tank sender unit that I need to get replaced. Annoying when no led warning, it does not lit even when I put power on, should it flash there?

With 30 litres I get little movement to gauge by braking hard, after few minutes needle goes down a bit and comes back up after few more minutes.

It is raingin, autumn is coming, so not rapid development coming with car

Post by **Chris_C** » 01 Aug 2005 08:30 pm

Agree'd with Foggy, don't keep your mouth shut Morgan, you've helped me a few times, let alone all the others. And thats also why I said most, I had a slight sneaky feeling you might have a clever meter, and why I was keen to find out more about your methodology.

Post by **Vart** » 01 Aug 2005 11:45 pm

now maybe i've missed it but i'm still not sure when the light should come on in relation to the gauge and whether the mark between full and empty is either quarter or 5ltr mark.

Post by **foggyjames** » 02 Aug 2005 12:00 am

It should come on when the needle hits the 'reserve' line.

cheers

James

Post by **Vart** » 02 Aug 2005 12:13 am

right, i see. so it's not a particularly good representation except in general terms of how much petrol there is unless the light comes on or the needle is at full tilt.

Post by **foggyjames** » 02 Aug 2005 12:44 am

It's not calibrated at all, if that's what you mean?

I normally count on it stopping at full until it's burned almost £10 worth, then it drops until it's burned £15 worth, then stops again until £20-25, etc...you get used to it.

cheers

James

Post by **siggi** » 04 Sep 2005 11:07 pm

Volvo 340 1,7 '86

I have trouble with my fuel and temp gauges. They are not working constantly. They behave in the exact same way at the same time. They are apparently connected somewhere. When the fuel stops then the temp stops and vice versa. Most of the time they dont work.

When they work they work perfect as far as I can tell. However, the fuel gauge behave a little bit strange sometimes when it doesn't work. I could start to rise in steps (every 2 seconds it jumps a litte bit) and then it stops in a random position.

I have tried to reconnect the connectors on the panel, but the gauges are still not regularly "on".

Your discussion about the regulator caught my interest. Do you think that my problem could be linked to the regulator? Is it the same regulator for the fuel and the temp gauges? Where are the regulator positioned on the panel?

Any other way the fuel and the temp gauges are connected? Fuse?

Thanks
Siggi

Website · Post by **antiekeradio** » 04 Sep 2005 11:15 pm

yep, you're looking at the right direction.

could also be a fuse or wireloom (i.e. connector) related problem.
-that is, connector elsewhere than on the dash unit itself-