sound in the 300... more power!

[CBA]

Ok everythimg in this car reverberates... cannot get a good bass-mid-treble balance.
Anyone sound engineered a 300? Trying to get the reverb out of the 100hz - 2K range.
I have layered carpet in the boot, I have a P.A. speaker on the parcel shelf, very tasteful.

also have pair of 80W speakers in the front running off the headunit 22W RMS per channel
rears sent high-level to the amp and PA speaker

What to add for super basssssssss!!!!

The low bass, 20Hz to 100Hz is fine, nothing reverbs at that freq.
100hz to 2k is terrible, hollow reverb, right in the centre of your head.
Treble, 2k+ is sweet from the horn tweeter, crisp and full of detail.
but the components put some horrible mid+treble out.

Might need a crossover or something, just to kill the treble in the front speakers, let the horn do the treble alone...

Thinking 300W sub and amp for hard bass DUMPF!!! DUMPF!!! DUMPF!!!, let the PA do the mid and the components do the treble and mid detail to give fair reproduction.

What's going to do the trick, there's loads of low quality treble and mid, really tinny... dont know how to quench it.

This is going to be used for a camping soundsystem - have a BIG battery for it .

should I just put a wopping sub in there and tune around it, or does someone know how to get the treble and mid sounding better in a 300?

Anyone got a really good loud sound from the 300? whats a good setup for it....

Just looking for pointers really...

[valman]

you need this:
works great in my car
300watt 10" kenwood running off a 4 channel amp and an xplod headunit

[CBA]

I got something that size, but its a mid/treble not a sub.
I'm thinking a "medium" sub to go with it.
I'll get some photos.
The setup looks cool, but it's a bit weak in the bass. .

[CBA]

Oh sh1t!... Just bought a 1 Farad Capacitor......
Looking at subs and amps
Recording some tapes (I still use Cassette Tapes!)

[Speedy88]

I'm using a fusion sub/amp combination unit. It works well and fills the bass holes that the standard speakers leave behind. I think a good starting point for sound quality is having a good radio with specific sub output. Then move onto subs and large speaker cones in the parcel shelf. From there upgrade front speakers and install better cabling. Never had a problem inside a 300. Outside however sounds pretty terrible, but boot vibrating makes it all sound a bit cheap. With the boot open it sounds great though.

[CBA]

Just go mad and get the biggest sub and amp I can find and just tune the system as a whole (prob with better = not necessarily more powerful (stated*) headunit))

must be this kenwood reprojuicing mids like a "my little pony TM" walkman.
damn kenwood, should have known buying a chav brand.

Whats a good tape player??????? has to be tapes.

[CBA]

the headunit is a: Kenwood KRC-V679R - Good function, poor reproduction so far... recording some fresh tapes with equaliser applied... see if I can wring a good sound out of it.

[volvodspec]

hmm, this topic reminds me i still have to install my all Kicker audio
4x 12" woofer, 2x 10" woofer, 5 amps (including 2 monoblock amps) and 25 speakers/tweeters etc. hooked to a kenwood headunit

all the shit that vibrates along with the car is terrible indeed, i used to have 2x 12" woofer hooked to a single Kicker monoblok, that allready was loud as hell; i even lost both rear pop-out windows on that.. every time i cured a vibrating noise another popped up. i was mostly surprised when the windscreen wipers started bouncing on the front windscreen and the tips of the bumpers started touching the car body

[Chris_C]

I just have a 10" sub in matched box, 6" components in the front doors and run everything through a separate amp, not the HU amp. If you want to get rid of the vibrations you'll have to work out whats doing it, then chase it out with dynamat or similar. I find very few issues with vibrations tbh, windnoise on the other hand...

[kaos]

Right, heres wherei impart some knowledge from my days of audi ( there still going just being spent on the Jag)

Get some sound deadening in there, effectively mass dampening the panels.

Get rid of the cap, theres no need for it. If your power supply is struggling, look at doing what we call "TB3" - the big 3, upgrading all the power leads in the engine bay alt to battery - alt to earth etc. looking at your alternator output etc, make sure voltage and things are up to scratch.

I had no problems with voltage drop in my 1.4 340 with 500WRMS ammplifiers, and im now runing 2KWRMS amps and so on.

get rid of the tape deck and the high level inputs to amplifiers, theres another source of your entire problem with cross over ranges, high level in and outputs are bad quality most of the time.

Your cross over wont do you much good unless you running extrnal amplifiers to most speakers and so on.


What gear are you running?

[CBA]

140W 12" PA style woofer on the shelf, on a 200W bridged amp
pair of 6" in the front doors running from head unit.

Going to fit an extra amp and an extra sub and a pair of speakers on the shelf too... just finding cheap parts.

I need a long phono lead to get low level to the amp.

want a 3 channel amp, one input, L/R and sub outputs... just waiting for something to turn up on ebay - this 200w amp cost 99p.
I am trying to get every component for this price.

[CBA]

bought a proper wiring "set" (Tenner!!!!! ) (as advised) - 60AMP power 60AMP ground and a set of phono leads (5Meter) . But also bought some "competition quality" phono leads as well that should be better (low oxygen copper, gold plugs etc) (£4)

Also got a dash-mount tacho (99p) (couldn't resist, it's a tasteful little gadget, 3" across)
... what else... oh the power-cap 1 FARAD... (99p) I think I will need it, esp if I fit a sub and extra amp. and if not I can always blow things up with it...

£16 for the lot. - £17 if you include the 250W amp I got the other day for 99p... the bloke I bought it off cash on collection was not very happy...

still have £3.40 in paypal.

Dunno if i'll use the extra phono leads for the sub amp when I get it, seen a nice pair of 10" subs with an amp... you guessed it 99p and it's just round the corner. I'm going to get punched

[SteveP]

I've ran two sets of components up front in a 300 before... the 'best' setup I had was a pair of Infinity Kappa 5.25" components in the doors and tweeters mounted at dash level and a random 10" subwoofer. All running off a 4 channel Maystar amplifier. I did still find that there was too much treble... I think relocating the tweeters lower down would've helped. Also, because space for front speakers is limited in the 300 (my speakers where fitted where the manual window crank would fit) you can't get say 6.5" drivers that would fit and reproduce better low-mid frequencies. Even the 5.25" components I had only just fit due to their significant depth. But I was pretty damn happy with it all the same, still have all of it too which I ought to get round to selling!

[Chris_C]

I fitted electric windows after fitting my 6" components for exactly this reason...

[CBA]

the fronts will be 5.25", they seem to fit and look nicer.
Rears,I hate 6x9's I like round speakers - theyll be some 8-10" woofers (in the rear speaker cutouts)
Parcel shelf has a big PA speaker already and will get a pair of speakers, not made my mind up - something low/mid.
In the boot will be the biggest sub and most powerful amp I can get, looks like 1000W of sub in the boot.

the one piezo horn should be enough for treble, and the front components will have tweeters too. so rest will be mid/sub.

Thinking of mounting some speakers in the back doors too, anyone got some pics of back door speakers in situ?
wondering what I can fit in the back doors.