Oops! Why would somebody trying to make a living out of breeding cattle let them wander about on a A-Class road?

It was only a little cow: calf. The little ones move a lot faster!

Anyway, LHS headlamp and indicator, radiator and various front left corner bits will be required. Possibly bonnet ...

As posted elsewhere:
"In theory, the 1.7 is a good bet for economy. In reality, not so good. Partly, this is due to the unrealistic fuel economy tests and partly its the carburettor.

The 1.4 is the town car and the 360 (just bought one) is great for long motorway trips. Had two 1.7s and I do like ...

On throttle pumping, not a Volvo experience, but I once had an Imp (Solex fixed jet) for four years from new and even though I had it through really bad winters with temp down to -20C I never used the choke once. It got throttle pumps and nothing else (max 8, for -20C). At 80000mls, this thing was ...

I think these are made of polypropylene. Thats the usual material: or perhaps HDPE. Anyway, they always get broken and most people find it hard to fix them. Glue doesnt work on this stuff. The solution is to use pop rivets and bits from a plastic bucket or maybe a washing up basin (which is usually ...

1.7 radiators are sh1t.

I fitted a 360 rad in my old 340. Had to do a fair amount of soldering and entertaining copper-craft but at least it didnt corrode away by the end of the year!

I have had the brakes of a 340 on fire on a single-track road here (3 stops from about 100 in a few minutes).

The back plates have already been mentioned. Some pr1cks have those brake dust guards: DONT DO IT. Regarding wheels, in my opinion, even the steel wheels vent well enough. Getting the air ...

The bypass hose is the usual way of dealing with this. I havent actual seen one on a 360 but most seem to work ok this way. As long as there is something in there to lubricate it and no hydraulic lock it should work.

Is that a left exit exhaust?

Isnt that a C&U violation and an MoT failure? Certainly used to be.

In the 70s and 80s we were replacing copper washers with Aluminium because the bears were leaving the plant with pockets full of "coppers" every night.

5000 guys with 50 washers each 250 times a year is a lot of dosh.

And the power rack has a different ratio. If you have the right tyres (and have increased overall offset, and maybe reduced castor) the power rack, without the power, is a way of getting quicker steering with plenty of feel.

Ivans point about grip is a good one. This fits with my experience of the 340/360 and with my experience of Triumph/Talbot rally cars. Compliance is the key. Keep those wheels pushing down onto the ground and you can apply more power or more braking and still maintain control.

I hope the tops of those dampers are fixed to something solid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mode of failure is also an issue. Stainless does not "yield".

And the thing most people do not understand is that a properly designed bolt acts like a spring. If there is no stretch then it will be unreliable in service: more likely to come loose. That means less strength can be better. (Still ...

First action with a rally car was always to get rid of anything complicated. Decent springs and dampers carefully chosen. Only use anti-roll bars as a last resort.

Strut front and rigid rear is a classic layout. It reponds well to the stiff front treatment but especially on the 300 because of the ...

Whats all this anti-roll bar stuff about. Its much easier than that. On a 340 you can treble the front spring rate and the higher the rate the better everything gets. Reduced roll, sharper handling more predictable, better traction due to improved relative compliance at the rear, and superb ...